Geography The Coastal Zone
Types Of Waves
Constructive
Gentle Beach
Wave Crests Far Apart
Bad For Surfing
Weak Backwash
Strong Swash
Low WAves
6-8 Every Minute
Destructive
Steep Beaches
Wave Crests Close
Good For Surfing
Weak Swash
High Waves
15 Waves A Minute
Strong Backwash
Erosion
Processes
Marine Processes
Hydraulic Action
Air may become trapped in joints and cracks on a cliff face. When a wave breaks, the trapped air is compressed which weakens the cliff and causes erosion.
Attrition
Waves smash rocks and pebbles on the shore into each other, and they break and become smoother.
Corrosion/Solution
Acids contained in sea water will dissolve some types of rock such as chalk or limestone.
Abrasion/Saltation
Bits of rock and sand in waves grind down cliff surfaces like sandpaper.
Sub-aerial Processes
Chemical Weathering
Freeze-thaw
Weathering
Human Activity
Biological Weathering
Geology
Permable
Subtopic
Imperable
Features
Headlands
Bays
Wave-Cut Notches
Wave-Cut Platforms
Cracks
Cave
Arch
Stack
Stump
Cliffs
Movement Of Material Along Coasts
Lonshore Drift
The direction of prevailling wind causes the swash of the waves to carry material up the beach at an angle. The backwash then flows back to the sea in a straight line at 90°.
Continual swash and backwash transports material sideways along the coast.
Suspension
Small particles are carried in water, eg silts and clays, which can make the water look cloudy. Currents pick up large amounts of sediment in suspension during a storm, when strong winds generate high energy waves.
Solution
Minerals are dissolved in sea water and carried in solution. The load is not visible. Load can come from cliffs made from chalk or limestone, and calcium carbonate is carried along in solution.
Traction
Pebbles and larger sediment are rolled along the sea bed.
Saltation
Load is bounced along the sea bed, eg small pieces of shingle or large sand grains. Currents cannot keep the larger and heavier sediment afloat for long periods.
Sea Defences
Hard Engineering
Rip Rap
Sea Wall
Offshore breakwater
Groynes
Revetement
Soft Engineering
Beach Building
Gabions
Bastions
Case Studies
Mappleton
Old Harry And Wife
Subtopic
All Coastal Key Terms
Fetch
The distance the wind blows over
Swash
The water rushing up the beach
Backwash
The water drains back down the beach
Deposition
When the sea loses energy, it drops the sand, rock particles and pebbles it has been carrying. This Process happens when the swash is stronger than the backwash and is associated with constructive waves
Deposition
Beaches
Spits
Salt Marshes
Bar
Tombolo